Here are just a few of the great resources we have in San Francisco as locavores. Honestly, we’re quite spoiled. What follows is a list that I’m sure we’ll be updating regularly as we discover new items of yumminess. For the most part, these are the farmers and producers that I talk to and am in the process of finding out more about every time I go shopping.
Prather Ranch
These guys are what I love to see in my butchers: Friendly, helpful, and enthusiastic. Worshipers of bacon and masters of the grill, I always get the sense that when they aren’t behind the counter selling the meat, they’re probably at home fiendishly brining, stuffing, or marinating. I suspect on the weekends they drive up to the farms just to slap the extremely well-cared for cows, sheep, and pigs on the rump and say farmer-y things like, “there you go, Bess” or “damned fine pig you are, Mr Mudd.” It is possible to love animals and love eating them, and this company does both very well. The pigs are well within our 100 mile range, kickin it near Lake Berryessa. The cows are raised up in my home area of Mt. Shasta. The lambs live in lush southern Oregon. Cooks note: Pasture-raised meats make fantastic slow-cooked stews and braised dishes because of the lower fat content of the meat. It eliminates the heavy quality that dutch-oven cooked items have and you never have to drain that much fat off the finished roast. I think the flavor of the meat comes through much better, too. Somehow, it seems to result in a more elegant dish, even when it’s just a simple lamb shank.
Marin Sun Farms
Just over the bridge is this farm. I like these guys too, but they are pri-ceeeyyy. I get the big-ticket items as a splurge, but the range of products they offer motivate me to learn more and more about cooking every time I visit their stand. I’ve gotten into the habit of buying the low-priced items (relatively speaking) whether or not I know how to use them and then figuring out later how to work them into a dish. The delicious recent discovery of marrow bones has already got me onto less and less traditional cooking tangents. Kidney!? Fat back!? Bring it on. Yesterday, they had half of a pig’s head ready to go and it took some resistance to avoid picking it up just for the thrill of it. Also, the look on Daniel’s face when I bring this stuff home is hilarious.
Cap’n Mike’s Holy Smoke
These fisher folk are up in Bodega Bay and have some extremely yummy fish treats to offer, including a dried-and-smoked salmon stick that makes me do a hulk hogan imitation when I bite it. And that is some good fun, people. Although these are also expensive items, smoked meats are still an economical cooking choice. I’ve discovered a little bit in a dish (think risottos, salads, and pastas) makes a big impact. They also keep for a long time, so if you get a big chunk of smoked fish you can throw together little meals for weeks to come from.
Bodega and Yerba Santa Goat Cheese
I cannot say enough good things about this family’s cheese. I dunno why it appeals to me so, but a little bit of their queso fresco or shepard’s cheese always finds it’s way into my bag, into the fridge, and onto the plate. It’s just really simple, but really good goat cheese, and somewhat of a refreshing break from the french-style cheeses that abound in our area (not that I’m complaining). Since I’ve waxed poetic about them before, check out the entry “Cheesus is Magic” for more info. I will say that Javier is one of the nicest guys in the cheese business, and I am totally rooting for them as they transition to certified organic standing (no small feat in the farming biz). Goooooo Goats!
Iacopi Farm
This is where I get those giganti bean that keep showing up in the recipe page. I just like food that’s ridiculously out of proportion – giant beans are as entertaining to me as itty -bitty quail eggs. Alice-in-wonderland sized 8 layer cakes, 2 inch hors d’oeuvre cheeseburgers, that sort of thing. It’s the sculptor in me, but the things I pick up from Iacopi make way better art supplies than the plastics and textiles I used to work with. My head is still reeling from the shelling bean season and all the english peas and favas that I got to play with over the summer. Mmmm…fava crostini, sweet pea soup, fava dumplings, sauted peas in butter and mint. I guess you could say I’m…shell shocked. (ugh.)
Stonehouse California Olive Oil
This oil is our kitchen standard and makes great cooked dishes and dipping oil both. Originally, I got hooked on this place because of their lisbon lemon oil, which is so, so, so good. I butter-fried some sole fillets and dribbled the lemon oil over them with some fresh ground pepper and voila’ = new food addiction. But then we had that nasty frost earlier this year and the lemons all went bye-bye. So I tried the blood orange flavor with some fresh-shaved fennel and sea salt and voila’ = another food addiction. Damn.
Lundberg Family Farm
I get all my rice from these guys and I’m planning some secret experiments utilizing their sweet rice syrup for upcoming *Local* recipes. It’s their arborio rice that I use for all my risottos and rice puddings, and it’s above par in regards to the imported italian variety. Plus the founder, Albert, was a bonafide dust-bowl farmer who left the ravages of the midwestern fields, moved to California, and named his sons (who run the farm today) Eldon, Wendell, Harlan and Homer. It’s like a Steinbeck novel in every bowl. MMMmmmm, Steinbeck.
Clover-Stornetta
Milk, butter, cheese, eggs; these guys are kind of like the MC for a community of dairy and egg people around Petaluma. They are my standard buys every time I go to the store, and every time I look over their website I’m more and more thrilled to be able to support them. I can’t even get into it here cause there’s not enough space, but check out the post babies taste better for more adulations. I use their whole organic milk for making quick ricottas and mozzarellas and they always turn out sweet and full-bodied. Plus, have you seen any of their adds? They’re hopeless punsters. Anytime you can do good and maintain a high level of good-natured dorkiness you’ll make it into my book. Fer-sure.